It has been fairly quiet the last few weeks. I have been busy getting stuck into work, and it seems that we are seeing more and more patients every single day. My colleague Monica is needed to work in the lab, and so I have been unable to work with her. I have been filling my day with writing out health and safety policies, and standard of operations for testing and quality assurance in the laboratory….(yawn!). So as you can see, I was in desperately in need of fun!
This came in the form of a joint 50th birthday party for two doctors and a nurse who work at the hospital, and a local teacher. It was held at a local guest house and was beautifully decorated with swathes of red and white material and fairy lights every where, much like a Western wedding. There was a head table where the birthday people would sit, and then rows of seats all facing the head table. As Wazungus we were characteristically early. I wore one of my two dresses I brought with me, and sat awaiting the start of the party. As people arrived it dawned on me that I needed to get a new dress! The ladies looked so amazing in their party dresses and head scarves! I was in awe, and have decided that when next I get a chance to buy some nice fabric I will get the local tailor to create something spectacular. Whether I will suit such fashions is something separate altogether, but even after losing weight, I have been blessed with aspects of an African’s woman’s body! Even so they may laugh me out of the party!
My colleague and friend Monica came with her husband, as did our neighbours and we proceeded to discuss who was married or related to whom, and I had to sit there for a full 10 minutes as the ladies discussed which man I should marry! It was thankfully decided that none were worthy of me! Yet my friends still proceeded to embarrass me when the hospital driver appeared to say hello. He was dressed in full Islamic prayer clothes, even though he is a Christian! On our second meeting, he had given me a musical card stating that he loved me. He had accompanied that with a rose with a small polar bear like animal attached. I was incredibly embarrassed, and could only mutter a thank you before I ran away! This guy tries to woo every white girl that comes to Nyangao, and I will not be the last!
I was more interested in the drink and food at this event! In Tanzania, you pay an admittance fee which includes your drinks and your food, and our rate was 15,000 Tsh. For about £8 or so we got 5 beers and a nice spread of chicken, plaintain, chips, salad, and samosas. It was very good, and although the beer was warm, I loved it! We continued to sit, eat and drink until the guests of honour arrived 2 hours later. They came in procession dressed in white and red matching suits. It was beautiful, but it was so much like a wedding that it was a little odd. They took their places at the head table and the festivities begun. The music started and the family were introduced. It was a very happy occasion, although the men looked painfully embarrassed by it all! We were all called up to congratulate them, and proceeded to do a shuffling conga around the courtyard and past the family and head tables saying ‘ongera’ (congratulations) and knocking our drinks together.
We sat back down, and a huge cake was brought out. They guests of honour rose one by one, and family members and friends were called and they fed each other pieces of the cake (again very reminiscent of a wedding reception). I was very tempted to go up just to get a cake fix, but I was able to prevent myself! This continued for a very long time, but it was lovely to watch it and see how happy the families were. It really brought home how important turning 50 is here. The nurse Mama Agnella nearly dies last year of kidney failure, but was saved by the hard work of the hospital. Also the teacher was diagnosed as HIV positive 10 years ago, and lost her husband and her son to AIDS. Yet here she was looking healthy, happy and beautiful. It was very poignant, and I was very proud even though I did not even know her.
After the cake fest, the music began in earnest. Initially people from the tribes of the birthday men and women were called up to dance. They were all from the same tribe, and so a huge number of people went to dance in the small space in front of the head table. The guests of honour sat watching and did not dance as I expected they would, but the men were beginning to smile more! Then to my horror I was dragged to the front and told to dance with Monica and her husband! The only Mzungu on the dance floor! I prayed that my years of dance training would help me not to stand out anymore than I already did. When you are surrounded by people who naturally have incredible rhythm, and you originate from a place where bad dancing to songs like ‘living on a prayer’ at discos is a given, it becomes very scary (even when you have had five beers!). However I soon relaxed, and Peter was a very good dance partner, protecting me from the hospital driver who was moving closer and closer with every second! After what seemed like hours but was about 5 minutes I went back to sit down, and was immediately congratulated on my moves by some people! Result!
Soon it was time for us to leave, and so I missed the gift ceremony, and could hear back at the house that the celebrations continued on until the very early morning. I had a wonderful time, and felt privileged to be invited to share such an important ceremony for people I hardly know. This is another example of the openness and generosity of the Tanzanians. I am definitely going to have a 30th birthday party like this one when I get back next year, so people get planning. I want a really big cake!
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